Political Shiftings

Before I begin this post, I would like to simply give my apologies for being so remiss in my entries. I hope to catch up on all that has taken place in the last months and show exactly why I haven't been writing, but I must recognize the patient waiting of so many people who were assured before I left that I would keep this blog updated frequently. Ah, how naive! The hints have become continually less subtle, and I imagine that if I don't update this blog soon, I will get reamed via e-mail demanding that I post something. I will try my best to make up for the lost time. . .

Although the coup has long since occurred and all sense of danger has dissipated, I feel that the political shiftings of the country are still deserving of an entry. If not to provide an unique perspective on the events, hopefully this entry can at least provide an entertaining detail of my place through it all.

When I first heard news of political dissent, I was sitting down to check some e-mails after getting home from a Rotary meeting. As I read some interesting anecdote of the lives of those in the US, my mom told me (in English at this point) that there were tanks driving through the streets in Bangkok. Despite it being completely irrational as it was past 11 pm, the first image that came to mind was some sort of gaudy parade in honor of the king: that is just the sort of thing that would seem perfectly normal in Thailand. After taking a moment, I returned to reality, however, and quickly followed the rest of the family into the master bedroom.

We gathered around the TV to find that all the stations were broadcasting patriotic songs along with adorable children's drawings and pictures of the king with the people. With the exception of a few foreign stations that slipped by, every station was exactly the same. It was also soon discovered that the phones (land lines as well as cell phones) had ceased to work for the time being. As we waited for some more substantial news, I drew up some foreign articles on a laptop to read an English descriptions of the events. With a mixture of assistance from the articles, my observations, steady conversation with my host mom, and a English-Thai dictionary, I was able to form a picture of what was occurring.

The prime minister at the time of the coup was Thaksin Shinawatra, a multi-millionaire communications mogul who made his fortune by selling a series of satellites his company owned. This lost him respect with Thai people because he was somehow able to evade the taxes of his profit through a wording in the laws. More than this, Thais claim that Thaksin has used his fortune to pay of poor farmers in rural community to gain support for election. He has also been accused of other forms of corruption including manipulating the government and overpowering the checks and balances system during his rule. Finally, the coup leaders also accused Thaksin of creating additional violence in the south of Thailand and encouraging social rifts between the sections of Thailand when he should have been drawing the various groups together.

On September 19th, Thaksin was away in New York for a conference, and the military seized their opportunity. Late Tuesday night, tanks rolled into Bankok and began broadcasting censored programs of patriotic songs and images of the king (the majority of Thai stations are owned by the army). At about this time Thaksin declared a state of emergency from New York, though this broadcast was only aired for a brief time before the army took over the government run news station. Simultaneously, the tanks took post at several government buildings. Rumors of arrested officials and that Thaksin's son had fled the country began to spread.

In my home in Udon Thani, it was about 2 am at this time. The coup leaders calling themselves the Council for Democratic Reform, had made a few statements by this time that ensured safety to the people and briefly described that the government had been overthrown. There was still no real new at this time, and with not much else to be heard and the threat of immediate danger subsided, we went to bed.

The next morning was declared a holiday, and the schools were all shut for the day. That morning it was determined that the army led by General Sonthi Boonyaratkalin had dissolved the constitution and disbanded both houses of Parliament as well as the courts. For such a seemingly significant act, the Thai people seemed surprisingly calm about the events of the night before. In fact, most people (people I actually met, not just those blasted on TV) seemed happy that Thaksin was out of power; I wouldn't go so far to say that they were rejoicing, but they seemed to appreciate that the army had taken action against Thaksin.

At first I was a bit perplexed by this. The US puts the greatest of importance into the concept of democracy. It is the most sacred ideal of our culture and government, and the thought of a broken democracy is blasphemous to many Americans. Thais, however, do not share this same view of government; while Thais clearly value the concept of democracy, their real loyalty is to the king. Should democracy fail, it isn't devastating as long as the king remains in tact, and a coup with the blessing of the king is acceptable. During this shift in power, the king remained mostly silent, making no statement as to his feelings of the coup. The army tanks all sported bright yellow ribbons in support of the king, however, and by not saying anything, the king was quietly giving his consent.

That holiday from school was a quiet one: it seemed that most Thais had chosen to stay home that day, and when Mary, Zoe, and I went to the park, it was nearly empty. Any thoughts of personal danger had subsided almost immediately after I learned what was going on. The idea of someone shooting a gun at me in the park in Udon was absurd. No, I was never afraid for my life in any way, but I can say that there were moments of worry. Mainly for my exchange. I felt that if anyone should be killed in Bankok (as there were promises of should Thaksin return to Thailand), my exchange would immediately be terminated and I would be sent home. Such events as military coups don't tend to bode well for an exchange program that promises the utmost security. I was also worried that my visa would no longer be applicable in Thailand if there was a change in government; having limited knowledge of how such things work, I was unsure if visas were void if the government that approved them no longer existed.

Within a few days, however, the majority of my worries had subsided to a mild apprehension. Everything calmed down almost immediately, and within a few weeks, life seemed entirely back to normal. Not at all what one would expect after a complete shift in power. As for the new government, they have promised to restore power to the people within a year and assert that they fully support a democracy for the people. Their actions, they claim, were entirely guided by the people and that it was necessary for them to dissolve government in order to save government. Following the coup, the US expressed their disapproval that democratic means weren't used. They suspended some of their foreign aid to Thailand as well.

My personal view of the coup is one of hesitant support. As Thai people do seem genuinely relieved that Thaksin is out of government, I cannot firm hold to the view that democracy is the right way and the only way. While I clearly would have preferred that democratic means be used to dispose of a corrupt leader, I realize that this shift in government may very well be positive for the people. I believe it is too early to tell what sort of impact this coup will have because the ramifications of a complete shift in power may not surface for a few years. Likewise, my support or disapproval of the coup depends greatly on whether power is actually returned to the people within this next year. As I wait to see what will unfold, life goes on in the meantime, and at a feverish pace, too.

Easing Into Comfort

Today I had the vague idea that I might write another entry; it wasn't until I ventured a glance at my last entry that I realized exactly how much has occurred in a month. Among the first things that come to mind are riding a tandem bike with Mary around Nong Phu Jak park to the gleeful shouts of "falang" by several people, eating durian (it is delicious but a small piece feels like I've eaten an entire cheesecake), feeding wild monkeys, visiting the Laos border (only entering the country with my eyes, though, since my visa forbids my entire body from crossing the border), and the numerous flash floods that seem to fill the streets with a foot of water just as thousands of students are trying to make their way from school through various means of transportation (foot, motorcycle, car, song tao). Perhaps more important if not more exciting has been the progress I've made settling into my life here.

I began school just 2 weeks after my arrival at an all girls school of 4000. The first day I awkwardly assembled my uniform (an interesting design that makes me resemble a cross between an anime character and a school mistress) and nervously began school. I really needn't have worried about struggling in a foreign school because I was immediately swept up into a whirlpool of introductions with teachers, directors, former exchange students, and others. The Thai schools begin in May or June with a break between terms in October, so I was apparently an exciting break in the mundane routine of the school. Since no schedule was made up for me until my second week, my first days were spent visiting different classes (usually English classes) and meeting an seemingly endless network of smiling Thai girls. Most girls seemed completely unabashed by the fact I could speak very little Thai and eagerly jumped into attempted conversations; this and their intent desire to like me unconditionally have made my school transition quite easy.

I would say that things have calmed down into a routine in the month I've been attending school, but this is inaccurate and false. My schedule is designed so that I only have classes once a week; as there are always mishaps with school schedules, it took an additional two weeks to find and attend the correct classes. In fact, this last Wednesday was the first time I actually went to my Buddhism class! I am officially a part of the 5/10 class, but I only study with these girls once a day, so amidst all the confusion with the schedule, I was meeting new classes of 30 girls every day. Each time this happens, I have the pleasure of going through the entire introductory conversation again and again in progressively more Thai and less English: after a thousand times through, this conversation is still different every time I have it. In between these entertaining conversations I may actually have class where the subject is either something I enjoy or a subject I'm not expected to do much of anything in because of the language barrier. Amongst other things, my classes include swimming twice a week in the Olympic size swimming pool, batik, Thai dancing, Thai desserts, and multiple Thai classes: needless to say, classes are rather enjoyable.

School has provided one of the greatest cultural differences I've seen thus far. As I began school, I was immediately welcomed into each class without question. I had expected to be kindly guided about my first few days or so before being left to my own devices to find my way around and build friendships. Much to my surprise, this was not the case in my Thai school, where any group of girls (including one's that I had never met before) were immediately welcoming and continued to include me much after the initial introduction. This behavior was so unexpected for me, I believe, because the difference in Thai and U.S. cultures. In the U.S., people are genuinely kind and welcoming, but may not extend a invitation to a stranger beyond an initial introduction. While some may mistake this for coldness, I believe it is just a different style of friendship that requires developed familiarity: a single conversation is usually not enough to constitute extended invitations. In my experiences in Thailand, however, the girls I meet are eager to be my close friend immediately; I have often been invited to go somewhere after just a few minutes of conversation, and even after the initial conversation has past, a group will still want me to eat lunch with them on another day. It is such a welcoming atmosphere that I feel I could sit down at any table in the large cafeteria at my school and could have a completely enjoyable lunch no matter who was sitting in front of me.

Another interesting aspect of Thai schools that I have immediately noticed during my stay here is the relationships that develop within specific classes. Thai students often spend years with the same group of people, and a deep sense of camaraderie develops from this. It has been quite entertaining to observe the unique personalities that each class has developed after years together; every class (usually between 35-45 students) has their own style of banter and inside jokes that makes interactions between girls often enjoyable, if not hilarious. The two classes that I enjoy being with the most and am becoming the greatest friends with are fun to watch even when I'm not involved in the conversation. It is interesting, however, that best friends may never see each other outside of school as weekends are spent in extra classes or with family for the most part: unlike the U.S., the major bonding occurs inside the classroom.

Speaking of family, I am discovering that the family oriented Thai culture is more appealing to me than I might have initially thought. Many of my greatest moments in Thailand thus far have been the times when I'm simply spending time with my family. Although I adore traveling to various places within Udon Thani and Thailand as it provides exhilarating excitement, my feelings of greatest contentment and a deeper sort of satisfaction come when I'm with my family. The understanding that has developed between us already is truly amazing and I feel buoyed by the hours spent exploring Google Earth with my dad, learning Tae Kwon Do with my progressively more talkative brother Champ, writing e-mails as Sien fervently plays his dance-off computer game, driving about Udon Thani on various errands (usually bringing the boys to one of their many extra classes) with my mom, and having unexpected, touching conversations with my mom, my dad, or Pee Choo. Perhaps the most encouraging of all is the progress that is made in Thai during these times; it seems that every time I feel as if my Thai hasn't been progressing well, I will have a great conversation with my family to finish the day well.

Although I know the present calm and comfort I am feeling at this moment will not last for my entire stay, I am encouraged by such emotions. The deep feelings of culture shock and homesickness will come in time, but for now I am rejoicing in the euphoria I've felt thus far. I try not to worry about the low points to come, though I can't stop myself from making a mental tally counting down the days until I've been here three months, a time when for most students the worst feelings of discomfort ease and dissipate. I can't put too much stock in such assurances, though: nothing is predictable during such a year as this. One must try not to foreshadow and simply enjoy. Jer gan reo.

Taywika Chutrakul

I have been struggling with how I should begin this account of my passage through Thailand for some time. The mental notes I make often seem outdated within a few hours, and I find myself unable to decide what events I should write. Time seems to be playing a cosmic joke on me: today marks a week of my time here, but that cannot be correct. Surely I have been away from the Sierra Valley for months is not a year! And yet reality asserts that I have been in Thailand for a week only, and it is my duty to give the truest account of my experiences thus far. . .

The flight was as good as a 12 hour flight to Seoul and a 6 hour flight to Bangkok can be. I was unable to sleep expect for an hour or so, but luckily there was Korean MTV and soap operas to entertain me. I tried my best not to dwell on the grueling journey, and subsequently I remember very little of my time spent in the air. In Seoul I met up with a group of other exchange students for the final leg of our trip. Once in Bangkok we regrouped and donned our blazers; we all felt somewhat like sheep in these matching outfits and wide eyed glances about the airport, yet we were all secretly grateful for the security behind them.

Once we passed through customs we were met by the Rotary counselor who helped us gather our things and our wits and leave the airport. As we exited the baggage claim we were greeted with the smiling faces of our new families and the welcome signs they had made for us. I was touched by such welcoming actions, and despite being exhausted, I spent the entire night grinning broadly.

The next morning I was given my first taste of the tangy sweetness of Thai culture when my family brought me to the bustling J.J.'s Market. The market was an incredible experience! I was intrigued the most by the thickly crowded alleyways where any number of goods from clothes and crafts to food and live animals (my family bought a baby squirrel there) can be found within a few feet of each other!

The next day my family and I drove the 8 hour trip to my new home in Udon Thani. We were greeted by a welcoming party of Rotarians and exchange students all gathered about with roses. Rotary has played an active role in my life since the time I arrived, as I have taken part in numerous Rotary activities. There was the clean water project dedication in a poor community outside of Udon Thani, the glasses project for needy, blind students, and the donation of goods at a local prison. There was also a large party complete with a demonstration of my karaoke skills (or lack thereof), but the most exciting event has probably been the TV interview with the local station.

There are four exchange students being hosted by the Magkang Rotary club: Zoe from Canada, Mary from New York, Sosuke from Japan, and me. All of us have been given Thai names and nicknames to replace our own names; my new identity is Taywika (it means a dearly loved high class woman) Chutrakul, and my nickname is Som (orange--or sour depending on the usage, but I prefer orange). I am overjoyed because the three girls get along extremely well, and we are already becoming great friends.

My family is also great; they are extremely kind and welcoming (and I have met many members of this seemingly endless network of relatives). Gait is my completely adorable host sister, and she is very good at English, so she has been an immense help this last week. She is actually on her way to Indiana for her own exchange right now; I am going to miss her company, but I'll probably be forced to learn more Thai this way. My two brothers (Champ and Sien) are rather shy, but I hope to get to know them in the coming months, perhaps during our Tae Kwon Do lessons on Sundays. My father is a comical man with amazing bling (an enormous golden necklace on a gold chain) and a strong I-san (local dialect) accent; our best interactions usually revolve around food of some sort, and he enjoys joking with me despite our limited language abilities. I get along quite well with my host mother who speaks English the best of the family besides Gait, and I think I will become close to her easily. The final two members of the household are the servant we call older sister and the grandmother, neither of which speak a word of English. The grandmother enjoys making me say complete jibberish because she knows I'll repeat anything while trying to learn Thai, and Choo is talks to me frequently despite the lack of understanding between us.

A word on food. . .My mother warned me before I left that I don't need to try everything at once. As good as this advice was, the Thai people seem to disagree. The first Thai phrase my host father taught me as we drove away from the airport at two in the morning was "I'm hungry", but I have found this quite unnecessary as I haven't been hungry since I arrived. The first days I was here I averaged about four full meals a day, which was sometimes difficult to manage even with everything being absolutely fantastic. Amazingly, I wasn't alone in the eating, for everyone here appears to enjoy eating continuously throughout the day and night. It is quite impressive, actually, that Thailand apparently has achieved having food available every few feet. There is literally food everywhere, and there are people eating it at every hour of the day.

One of the best experiences thus far has been the temples. I have visited a Buddhist temple and one Chinese temple. We stopped at the famous Buddhist temple in Ayutthaya on the drive to Udon Thani, and although it was quick, sweltering, and crowded, it was amazing. After removing our shoes, we each received three incense, a lotus bud, a candle, and what looked to me like scraps of paper. We lit the candle and incense and placed them in holders in front of a Buddha shrine, and the lotus flowers were placed in a vase on the shrine. The scraps of paper, it turns out, held flakes of gold that are pressed onto the Buddhas. We then made our way to the main part of the temple where a massive Buddha was housed to "wai" and wake a wish. The buddha was actually being "dressed" in orange robes and therefore barely visible, but it must be a truly impressive and beautiful sight normally.

My experience in the Chinese temple was quite different and also fascinating. WE prepared a feast beforehand and plates of food were then placed on various tables at the temple. An extensive ceremony of incense and kneeling then commenced; at six different stations we knelt before the shrine and placed three incense in a center burner and one on each side of this central one. Inside the main temple, I knelt before a shrine with what can only be described as a can of sticks. With the sticks you make a wish and shake the can until one stick falls out. The number on the stick corresponds with a fortune that you then receive on a piece of paper. After all the ceremony, the food is then gathered back up to be taken home, and the paper it rested on is burned. The result of this special event is apparently good luck and lots of food. The night we visited the temple, it started pouring which added an extra thrill to the experience.

It has been an incredible week, and it seems that life will continue this way for some time. It has been exhilarating thus far, through not completely devoid of struggles. The language is quite a challenge, and can be immensely frustrating. I am the equivalent of an infant at the moment, and such a complete shift from relative independence has been a shock. My head often hurts by the end of the day after concentrating with all my might on conversations I can't understand no matter how much I long for a linguistic epiphany. I am proud, however, of the amount I have managed to learn thus far, and I am eager beyond reckoning to become fluent. I am excited, however, for all to come, and I know the experiences have just begun. Until then, sawadee ka!